Blue Print Culture

Overview

Generalized

It includes tie dyeing, batik dyeing, dyeing and dyeing.

The traditional tie dye, batik, dyeing and ash dyeing mostly use indigo as a dye. Although the methods of anti dyeing are different, the finished products are blue and white, so they can be collectively referred to as blue printed cloth.

The common point is that the material is cloth (or hand woven cloth), the dye is plant Lonicera, and the production process is manual operation.

A narrow sense of blue printed cloth: people have long been accustomed to using plant bluegrass as a dye, using soybean powder and lime powder as dyeing paste, and paper as the edition.

Process operation

Specific operation: extract blue dye (Dian Lan) from Polygonum sibiricum Lour. Put the hollowed out flower plate on the white cloth, scrape the stain resist agent into the pattern gap by scraping the pulp board, print it on the cloth, dry it and put it in the dye vat. After 20 minutes, remove the oxidation and ventilate for 30 minutes. After 6 to 8 times, it will be dyed again and again to make it reach the required color.

And then put it out in the air to oxidize, dry and scrape the stain powder, showing blue and white stripes.

Because it is all manual printing and dyeing, dry pulp will inevitably crack, forming the unique charm of handmade blue printed cloth -- ice crackle, and now the machine printed cloth or traditional blue print is not clear, no manual traces, so the protection of traditional skills is imminent! The blue print pattern is auspicious and happy for the common people in the past three hundred years.

Process classification

Blue printed cloth can be divided into two forms: blue and white and white blue.

The blue bottom white cloth only needs to be printed with a flowerplate, so that the spots of the pattern do not connect with each other, such as plum, orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum.

The method of making white bottom blue cloth is often overprinted with two flower plates. The first printing is called "flower edition", and the second times it is called "cover plate".

The function of the cover plate is to cover up the connection points of the flower plates and the places that need to be left blank.

Another way to print white blue flowers is to separate a printed plate into a mesh. The pattern of the flower plate needs not be connected to each place. After carving, the flower plate is glued to a large area of mesh substrate with glue and paint, and then the paste is pasted.

Some blue printed cloth is also double-sided. This needs to be squeeged on the front side, then use the copy table to reverse the front pattern and then scrape the pulp once, so that the double faced blue printed cloth can be obtained after dyeing.

Blue printed cloth is an ancient hand printed fabric that has been widely used in the south of the Yangtze River.

Her simple and elegant cultural charm is unique in Chinese folk art, and the aroma of Oriental culture is emanating from thousands of loads.

Subject matter content

Simple, original blue and white, creating a simple, natural, ever-changing, colorful blue and white art world.

The patterns of blue calico are all derived from the folk, reflecting the common people's love and appreciation, and their longing for their beautiful life and simple aesthetic taste. In the subject matter and content, the healthy and simple soul of the common people has achieved the perfect unity of form and content on the folk blue printed cloth, so the blue calico really reflects a deep cultural and artistic accumulation.

The pattern of blue printed cloth is derived from popular folktale dramas, but most of them are auspicious patterns combined with animals, plants and flowers and birds. By using metaphor, homophonic, analogy and other techniques, the ideal and belief of the common people in the future are fully expressed. Therefore, in traditional folk customs, blue printed cloth occupies a considerable position.

In the past, when a daughter was married, she must bring a piece of rice made of indigo cloth which her mother had already prepared. This custom is to show her daughter's ability to govern housekeeping after getting married to a man's house.

When a girl gets married, there must be one or two blue prints on the clothes box. Most of them are dragon and Phoenix.

It can be seen that at that time blue printed cloth was indispensable to the life of ordinary people.

In ancient times, silk printing was called "dyed valerian" [1]. There were many kinds of processing technology, with different names, and later developed into a "blue bottom white printed cloth".

When used in cotton printing and dyeing to become a popular commodity, it must be produced after mass production of cotton cloth in Songjiang in the Ming Dynasty, but it may start as early as BC, and can be linked to the white folded and dry cloth woven in Southwest China.

The white cloth is made of kapok, and the plaques of the plaques appear to be woven and dyeing. The fine wool fabric "[2]" and "[3]" in the Han and northwest are also valued.

Printed silk is an early material which is a quilt cover of Chu tomb in the Warring States period of Changsha.

The second is a finished product of the Jin Dynasty unearthed in the northwest, with overlapping flowers on the top, and the name "Onyx vale", according to the name of the Tang and Song dynasties.

Along with the dyeing of valerian, the two instrument records that "between Qin and Han Dynasty, Chen Liang was able to serve the same.

There are many differences between Sui and Wen emperors.

The next time there is a little flower, which is thought of as a shirt.

The imperial waiter and his waitress invited him.

This book often records the history with its meaning, and can not be trusted. It is not absurd to talk about the popularity of dyed vale in the Six Dynasties.

The story of purple Valet was mentioned in the postscript.

The Tang people recorded that they had been in Baoying for two years.

The novel thinks Xuanzong Liu Jie Yu Mei is a clever girl who invented flower valiant.

Yun Xian San Lu recorded that "Guo Yuanzhen's Lai Mei pavilion has tens of servants, tens of thousands of guests, visitors to the dragons and valiant central valerian (skirts), group ginseng one song" Bai Juyi poetry "yellow folder valerian cold leaves," and "Chengdu new clip vale", in terms of physical and textual analysis, we can see that valiant flourished in the Tang Dynasty, and the technology was also mature in the Tang Dynasty.

The processing of silk fabrics in the Tang Dynasty has been used in a variety of complicated technologies. It can be roughly divided into two main categories: the first category includes the complex colors of the brocade and two colored flowers or the colored flowers, the color, the silk and the Luo, and the scissors of Bo Ru's smog.

These silk fabrics, except for shearing, are processed in the process of jacquard looms.

The second category includes a variety of "embroidery" and "paste silk", "stacking Aya", "mud gold and silver painting", "dye Valley" and so on.

The processing methods are finished on the finished products of silk fabrics or on the finished products of garments, and in addition, through complex formalities.

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Women in the middle and upper Tang Dynasty

And family daily screen, curtain, and more used to dye valerian.

The existing materials are of important reference value. They should be found in Dunhuang and Xinjiang in Gansu and some collections in the Japanese warehouse.

From the analysis of these materials, we know that there are at least three kinds of dyeing technology in the Tang Dynasty: valerian, valerian, and valerian.

A "wax vale" is what we often call "batik".

It is divided into two types: monochromatic and polychromatic.

There are four or five types of polychromatic dyes.

Because different colors are easy to infiltrate each other, flower heads are quite large, whether they are clusters of flowers or family flowers. They are full of composition and are especially suitable for making curtains.

In the popular popular book "broken gold" in Yuan and Ming Dynasties, nine kinds of valiant names were recorded, including Dali vale, Shu valerian, tuvale (i.e., pinching valiant) and Jin vale (when they were referring to Fang Sheng Ge Zi, cocoon Er vale, Su Shui vale, three sets of valerian, zhe vale and deer fetus spots (that is, song's deer fetus).

The "three sets of valerian" mentioned in the inside generally refers to this kind of raw product, and the name seems to be a general term for the folk. Because the Yuan Ming people did not produce such advanced printing and dyeing silk according to the Yuan Ming literature and the analysis of silk fabrics in the early Ming Dynasty.

Recently, it has often been heard that modern southwest batik develops from the wax vale of the Tang Dynasty.

Southwest batik has a far older tradition. It should be counted from the spot cloth of the cotton fabric.

The achievement of the batik technique in Tang Dynasty is not the result of any invention. It is probably the result of the introduction of the southwest brotherhood into the Central Plains.

In the Song Dynasty, the batik dyeing technology in the Song Dynasty had been on the decline. However, the southwest folk was still popular with batik, the name "waxy", and the exquisite jacquard cloth "Li Dan" of the Li and the Guangxi people.

North Korea was also popular in the Tang Dynasty, and it was also used in the Northern Song Dynasty.

Korea Graphic Classics "twenty-eight: vale curtain, not ancient, also first Confucianism" is painted and dyed as "Wen".

Li Yu is now in charge of valiant works. The quality of this article is quite different from that of yellow and white.

Its flowers are fire beads, four drop treasure nets, under the lotus flower seat, such as the so-called "Buddha".

However, it is not used by noble people.

Because of technical limitations, dyed patterns are different from brocade, that is, the same pattern and color effect are different.

In the Tang Dynasty, the pattern of batik dyeing, besides physical objects, still has some clues in painting. For example, there are two or three women's dresses in the Song Hui Zhang, Zhang Xuan Xuan, which belong to the "wax vale" or "clip vale" in dyeing valerian.

There are also several riders' clothes "wax and valiant", not rich.

History says: when Kaiyuan Tianbao, Yang's favoured, small instruments and extravagance, eight hundred needlework with embroidery workers, and Yang's aunts with gold and jade brocade.

Although the record is easy to exaggerate the truth, but because the extravagance of the ruling class at that time formed a social atmosphere, the dyed valerian pattern reformed, may be particularly closely related to this period.

In addition, Tang pottery figurine shows a lot of dyed Valles. The commonly used spots of Tang Tri Color and the "agate vale" by the Song Dynasty are really interlinked.

In the Dunhuang frescoes, the Buddha's Bodhisattva's wearing, changing stories and part of the people's wear, as well as the caisson, the screen and the mantle, have left many important reference materials worthy of our attention.

In the Tang Dynasty, not only did women dress dyed with valiant, but also men's robe and coat were used by them, such as Zhang Yichao, a soldier in the travel map.

In the Northern Song Dynasty, there were more than 20000 guards before the emperor's journey. According to the records of Song History and service and Zhou Bao, the part of them must have some flower and bird dyed fabrics.

This dyed valerian flower sleeves, knee sleeves and flowers and valiant caps are also derived from the "Kaiyuan Li" system in Tang Dynasty.

Also in Dunhuang's late Tang Dynasty, "several women who had sleeves against the wind" and the other Buddhist monks who were sitting on the side of the Rohan were also stained with valiant.

The woman's body is known as "Tuo", "vale"; the robe of Rohan is covered with the crevice of the water field.

Mizuta I's use was fashionable at that time.

Two the method of "clip vale" is to clamp silk with a hollow flower plate, and then apply a mixture of pulverized starch (usually made of soya bean milk and lime). After drying, put it into the dye vat and dye it, then dry it and scrape it out.

In the notes of the Song Dynasty, the "medicine plaques" were mentioned in the notes of the Song Dynasty, and the "pulp and water vale" of the broken gold refers to this kind, which is regarded as the predecessor of the blue bottom white printed cloth, which is generally good.

In this way, the coloring of valerian flowers will be lighter than other parts. If the flowers are used to clamp the flowers, they will be directly colored in the air leak, and the colors will be deeper than the others.

Although the latter is also called dyed valerian, the material has not entered the dye vat.

(three sets of valerian may also be processed by brush dyeing.

This kind of dyed vale must be made of flower plates. It was recorded earlier in the Northern Song Dynasty by Zhang Qixian's old Luoyang gentry. It was called "Luoyang Xian Xiang Fang, who stained the worker's surname Li, and could dress flowers and valerian."

The second is the Song Dynasty history and the two years of imperial edict: "after the court to create valiant silk, from the beginning of Yuanfeng to March as the number of soldiers, as the coat of the guards, to distinguish treacherous, and forbid folk building."

The Kaifeng government will strictly enforce its prohibition, and the guests will not travel to Xu Xing to sell the valerian plate.

After the Southern Song Dynasty, the ban was lifted, so Zhu Xiwen concentrated on attacking Tang Zhongyou. That is to say, it is a matter of public interest and private colourwork.

When he talked about the appearance of Ling'an, he talked about many colorful silk shops, the so-called silk and silk fabrics, and some of them were printed valerian.

The name "medicine patch cloth" printed on this cloth is passed from the Song Dynasty in Jiading to the surname, and the book integration leads to the old saying: "the plaque is distributed out of Jiading and Anting towns, and the song and Jiading surnames are created.

It is dyed with cloth plaster and dyed green, waiting for dry, to remove grey medicine. It is green and white, with characters, flowers and birds, poetry and various colors.

(Book Volume 681, Suzhou textile name) this printed cloth, also known as the "flower watering cloth" in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, is also known as the Songjiang article.

With the same technology processed by valerian and valerian, there was a "patch" on the ridge of the mountain.

The method is made of two pieces of wood, which are carved into fine flowers and used for cloth clipping, while wax is poured into the thread.

When the cloth is blue, it is made of cloth to remove its wax, so it can be very beautiful.

Therefore, if a man is stained with spots, he will not.

"...

Or cloth gowns.

A woman's upper skirt is striped, and its spots are rotten.

Three "twisted valleis" is a finished product of silk or dress. If necessary, a part of the thread should be tied, sewn or folded into a certain fold, fastened with thread, dried after dyeing, and cut off to knot. Then a natural pattern will be formed, including butterfly, Begonia, Chimonanthus praecox, Narcissus and so on.

The most convenient is the so-called "fish son valerian" by the Tang people, and the more complicated one is "pining the dizzy and valiant".

In the Song Dynasty, the so-called "dizzy pattern", "agate vale" and "deer fetus vale" mentioned in the broken gold are mostly inseparable from this kind of dyeing.

Generally speaking, the method of twisting the vale is relatively simple, and it can make a hobby as it likes and not be restricted by the vale plate, so it is quite common at that time.

However, since non commodity production allows individuals to be creative and win by surprise, some people will gradually make it extremely beautiful.

Like Valeriana, it can also be treated with color matching.

The "dizzy" and "deer fetus" were specifically prohibited by law in the Northern Song Dynasty, reflecting the advanced dyeing of valerian. The processing technology would be rather cumbersome, not less than the colored wax printing.

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"Deer fetus" seems to be very particular about production in Central Sichuan.

Song Shi Shi Zhi Zhi: "Zhao Chuan Shan weaving yard, since today is not for military cloth, its cotton, Qi, deer fetus, through the back, six baht, Zheng Zheng, turtle shell and other satin, do not need to buy Woven."

When he was emperor, the emperor cut down the brocade, the Qi, the deer, and the back.

Jing you Wu...

After that, he was able to gain Zi Lu red Jin, deer fetus, Qingli four years to reduce deer fetus.

Although it is known that it is dyed with Valeriana, "deer fetus" is rarely known in the past.

From the analysis of comparative materials, it can be speculated that it belongs to dyeing valerian, and the pattern is plum blossom spot, mainly purple red.

Luoyang peony notes: "deer fetus flower, many leaves purple flowers, with white spots, such as the pattern of deer fetus.

Therefore, Su Xiang Yu has its own house.

The peony record is also known as: "deer fetus red,..."

The color is red and yellow with white dots like deer's fetus.

Ouyang's flower with deer flower is purple flower, which is quite different from that.

Also in the Song Dynasty, Luoyang flowers and trees recorded that there are four kinds of peony: "yellow valerian, red valerian, purple valerian, and white valerian".

It can be seen that there are at least three colors of Huang Hongzi in the form of Paeonia lactiflora.

As for white valerian, it is noted that Chiba is white, and it is also known that flowers are natural and green.

Another "red twist" is "deep red in shallow red, easy to make valerian".

The peony spectrum is similar to that of the red and the shallow lakes.

In the Song Dynasty, the craft patterns were re realistic, and the basic patterns of valerian and deer fetus were also obtained from the description of these flowers.

The pattern of the deer's purple is actually created in the Six Dynasties. It is said that Tao Qian's postscript to search the gods mentioned this flower valiant: "Huainan Chen's Yutian beans, suddenly saw two beautiful women with purple valerian and green skirts, and the rain was not wet.

Its wall first holds a bronze mirror, which is seen in the mirror as two deer.

In the mirror, deer can be seen as a plum blossom spot in purple valerian.

In the Tang Dynasty, weaving workers were able to weave colorful and magnificent brocade to a high standard of art.

And Zhijin brocade, with small clusters of flowers and birds as the theme of the natural color silk, and because of the official service system at that time, it is more likely to get comprehensive development opportunities.

Although both dyeing and embroidery are similar to silk processing, they are similar in application.

Aristocratic women's dress, geisha dancers dress, all represent special status or need to add gorgeous gorgeous effect, dress processing uses colorful embroidery, gold embroidery and clay painting.

These are reflected in the poems of the Tang Dynasty. From the description of poems, we can also know the theme paintings of this advanced silk fabric, and what flowers, birds and some common insects are often used.

There are not enough images and methods of expression of these flowers and birds, but there are many reliable samples to be taken for reference. The most important thing is the relief of flowers and birds on bronze mirrors in the Tang Dynasty.

The extremely simple way of cross cutting is cross pattern, and some of the local fabrics in Ming and Qing Dynasties are also processed.

The pattern fully retains Tang style, but the five colors of Tibet people's weaving are particularly representative.

The application of valerian dyes in the Tang Dynasty has a certain degree of universality, and it will not affect other craft departments.

What is easy to see is its relationship with the color of the three colored pottery patterns.

Some tri colored pottery flowers and small clusters of flowers may have been used for dyeing silk and then for pottery decoration.

As in general, the wood glazed pottery is actually imitation of rhinoceros.

It is suitable for dyeing soft soft silk.

Generally, Valeriana is often used in green fields. As Tang Shi called, "women's clothes are green, valerian and floral".

From the unearthed tri colored terracotta warriors, you can also see some basic styles of green valiant skirts.

But the Tang people are used to using red, from red to red (also known as "not red", and "meat red", "apricot red") to dark coloured sticks red, red reality includes many different grades.

Part of Hua vale must make use of these different grades of red to form beautiful effects.

The ancient red dyestuff was mainly from shikonin and safflower. After the Song Dynasty, a large amount of red dye was introduced into the South China Sea.

Safflower comes out of the northwest, so the Northern Dynasty has a record of "Liangzhou's color is the best in the world".

But to the Tang Dynasty, safflower planting has been around the whole country, and Sichuan also has a large number of production, so Shu Brocade is more red.

In fact, Tang Dynasty was not only famous for Shu brocade, but also had a certain position in dyeing Sichuan.

Tang Wei Shou biography said: the emperor tasted the Wei Shu court, when it was cold, the side of the ribbon was asleep, and the emperor went back to the imperial clothing of the emperor.

Bai Juyi's poetry also has the phrase "Chengdu new clipped vale" to praise Shu vale.

After the history of the Tang Dynasty, the eunuch of the Tang Zhuang faction was in the army of Sichuan, and he had five hundred thousand Shu brocade.

Later, Meng Chang surrendered to the Song Dynasty, and the number of silks in the silk brocade was doubled.

This is the color silk in a large number of silk fabrics. According to the custom of the Tang Dynasty, it is called the silk fabric that dyed the color as the article, and it should also include the dyeing of the vale with all kinds of fashionable patterns.

The pattern of dyeing vale is developing constantly, but it is restricted by the technology of materials, and keeps more beautiful and simple patterns as usual.

Tang Dynasty's pitional period was in the Five Dynasties, and Tao Gu Qing's record was: "Xian de Zhong created a respect for valiant, light ink and deep yellow.

Two Lang Chen Changda, good accessories, family poverty, cargo sword as a valet account.

Because of hobbies, even poor students' Violin and sword are sold and replaced with a new dyed hat.

This aspect reflects the influence of social ethos, and on the other hand, it shows the new pattern of dyeing valerian.

This dark colored flower vale was popular in the Northern Song Dynasty, and was later banned by the government by decree.

Song Jinzhong has such names as "soap group, white flower", "brown square white flower" and so on.

There is no such thing as brocade, but there are still some clues to be found in studying it.

In the two year's imperial edict of the Song Dynasty, Huang Zidi was not allowed to wear black and brown white flowers in the capital.

Women are not allowed to make clothes with white brown hair and light brown silk, so that the Kaifeng government will be cut off in October. "Black and white white clothes" and "blue, yellow, purple, and dizzy" patterns in the imperial edicts are all meant to dye valerian.

A daily product is prohibited by the government. It is known that the popularity of finished products is quite common, and the production is quite labor intensive.

In the ban on dyeing the vale in the Northern Song Dynasty, there was also a ban on "BHA Ya Na".

As for the processing technology of this advanced silk fabric, was it related to the Xinjiang Jin Qi worker at that time, or directly related to the famous painter "Wei Pai"?

This involves the issue of dyeing the vale in the Northern Song Dynasty.

It has been mentioned in the preceding period that in the period of the Northern Song Dynasty, a ban on the use of valerian in the folk was forbidden, and the merchants selling flowers and valerian plates on the market were also guilty.

According to personal opinions, direct materials are not many, but indirect materials are most important. Ceramics, such as Jinyang kiln in the north of Shanxi, Jianyang kiln in southern Fujian, and Jizhou kiln in Jiangxi, are some dark dark purple glaze printing spots. They are made of Silver Star stains. They are yellow spotted and spotted. They have tortoise shells or partridge wings. They are made of polo spots in rhinoceros paints. The most important ones are purple and brown glazed yellow, white flowers, birds, three Phoenix or four perfectly designed tea cups. This kind of dyed vale, which was created in the five generation and popular in the Song Dynasty, was deeply stained with rehmannia and white flowers. It was cut off by prohibition. Can we learn from other clues?

It is revealed that there must be a dark dyed yellow and white fabric.

At the same time or later, it can be specifically reflected in ceramic production.